Production process
Production process
1. Design creation
First, the design of the kimono or obi fabric to be woven is decided and a design is created.
2 Refinement
Before dyeing, the thread is refined to remove impurities, oil, dirt, etc.
3 Dyeing
The warp threads are dyed based on the design.
Depending on the application and material, natural dyes*1 or chemical dyes are used, and the pigments are fixed to the thread using mordants and color-fixing agents.
*1 Natural dyes include dyes from plants that have been used in Okinawa for a long time, such as Fukugi, Okinawan sartoribar (Guul), Umbelia umbellata, and Ryukyu indigo, as well as dyes from plants, animals, and minerals imported from outside the prefecture or the country.
4. Gluing
The warp threads are under a lot of tension when weaving.
The heddles are also opened up and down under strong pressure.
During this process, the warp threads are pulled up and down, and the continuous shedding movement causes adjacent warp threads to rub against each other.
Therefore, starching is used to prevent the warp threads from becoming frayed, to give the threads strength, making them easier to weave, and to ensure that the texture of the product is not damaged.
Let it dry in good weather for a few days.
5 spools
The process involves gently winding the skein of thread onto a wooden frame or bobbin using a reeling tool.
6 Warping
This involves pulling the warp threads wound on a wooden frame or bobbin to the required number and length according to the pattern with a constant tension.
7 Striped
While checking the number of threads, we arrange the warp threads according to the design.
8 Temporary reed threading
The process involves passing the warp threads, which have been aligned through warping and striping, through the reed in order while checking them against the pattern.
This "temporary reed threading" process ensures the weaving width.
The temporary reed will be removed after winding the warp, so it is threaded more loosely than the main reed.
9 Sutras
While maintaining a constant tension on the warp threads, the cardboard is clipped and wound into a tear-off box.
10. Heddling
The mechanism that moves the warp threads up and down is called a heddle, and there are various types of heddle, such as wire heddles made from metal and thread heddles made with designs.
The heddle has holes through which the warp threads are passed one by one.
11 Main reed threading
In the real reed threading process, the threads are passed through to drive in the weft threads while maintaining the weaving width of the warp threads, so the round blades*3 are passed through the reed holes (gaps through which the threads are passed)*2 in order.
Unlike the temporary reed threading, the reed will not be removed until the weaving is complete, so thread it through carefully.
12 Weaving
13 Test weaving
This is the process of setting the warp threads on the loom and preparing to start weaving.
At this time, all warp threads are tied to the loom so that the tension is uniform.
After weaving, a test weave is carried out to check the overall tension balance and whether the threads are threaded correctly.
Once this is confirmed, we will check the color combination with the weaving design and warp threads using several types of weft threads prepared to match the design.
14 Weft dyeing
The weft threads are dyed to match the color of the weft threads, which have been decided.
15 Thread winders and bobbins
The weft thread is wound onto a tube wound on a wooden frame or bobbin.
16 Weaving
The warp threads are set on the loom and the weft threads are woven in.
17 Washing and Stretching
The rolls of fabric such as obi and kimono fabric are washed in water, glued with glue, and then stretched to adjust the width.
*Coat products such as coasters are not washed.